The myth-shrouded corner of Europe that’s a favourite of King Charles III

I ended my trip with a day spent on an e-bike, climbing up from the village of Bunestri through wildflower meadows and into woods strewn with mushrooms. My guide was Cornel Stanciu, champion cyclist, horseman, passionate protector of his homeland – and truffle hunter. Once we’d picked enough porcini, we set off on foot to search for black truffles and quickly found a dozen or so, sniffed out by Aki, Cornel’s Hungarian Vizslar. Back at his house, Cornel and a friend turned our haul of fungi into quite the most delicious mushroom risotto I have ever tasted, topped with shavings of truffle.

I bumped into Victoria soon after I returned. “You look so well…”, she said. “You’ve been to Transylvania, haven’t you?”

Essentials

Flights on Wizz Air (wizzair.com) from London Luton to Cluj-Napoca from £50 return. Steppes Travel (steppestravel.com) offers tours of Transylvania from £3,295 per person (five days) and £4,495 per person (seven days), including driver/guide, meals, accommodation, entrance fees and activities.

Where to stay

There are some lovely and very affordable B&Bs and guesthouses in the Transylvanian countryside which combine local character with warm and cosy comfort and delicious home-cooking; Romanian wine is excellent too. Here are some of the best.

The King’s Retreat, Valea Zalanului

Rooms, decorated by Tibor and Anna Kálnoky, who run the guesthouse and also own another (The Count’s Cottages, at Miclosoara), are furnished with traditional antiques. Dinner is served communally. Doubles from £93, including breakfast
or £281 full board, including activities (transylvaniancastle.com).