As Bangkok reopens to tourists, here’s what it’s like to visit right now

The city’s biggest international airport, Suvarmabhumi, was constantly abuzz with movement; travelers arriving from all corners of the globe at all hours, long lines snaking through the cavernous arrival hall as incoming passengers awaited their turn at the immigration counters.

Today, as the country attempts to balance fears of Covid-19 with the need to restart the tourism economy, Suvarnabhumi remains eerily quiet.

In a country where tourism contributes around 20% of the GDP, the absence of tourists has been devastating, forcing tourism-related businesses throughout the country — Bangkok included — to close.

Test & Go, take two

Thailand tourism officials are now hoping they can entice travelers to rediscover one of the world’s favorite cities.

Bangkok was amongst the first capitals in Southeast Asia to reopen back in November, its “Test & Go” program allowing fully vaccinated tourists from a long list of countries to enter the country.

Pre-approved passengers could fly in, get a RT-PCR test and head for their government-approved hotel where they’d await the results. If that test came back negative, they were free to explore the country at will.

It was a start. Around 250,000 travelers flew into Thailand in December 2021 according to government figures — a drop in the bucket compared to the 3.95 million arrivals recorded in December 2019.

But then in late December, officials put the “Test & Go” program on hold due to fears over the spread of the Omicron variant.

Travelers pass through an empty Suvarnabhumi Airport on January 1, 2022.

Matt Hunt/SOPA Images/LightRocket/Getty Images

Now, they’re trying again.

Those who do test positive will be transferred to a hospital or specially designated hotel, depending on the severity of their symptoms.

So what can those planning to visit Bangkok right now expect?

Covid prevention measures are in full effect. Masks must be worn everywhere, both inside and outdoors except while seated for meals or drinks. Those who breach the rules face fines. Temperature checks are a regular part of life, even when entering convenience stores like 7-11.

Museums, galleries, historical sites, spas, cinemas, pools, tattoo studios and sporting facilities are all open but must limit the number of visitors to 75% of normal capacity.

The Rolls-Royce of street food

Chef Jay Fai, far left, in her Bangkok restaurant on July 15, 2020.

Mladen Antonov/AFP/Getty Images

Covid-related lockdowns and travel restrictions have left their mark on businesses in Bangkok neighborhoods traditionally popular among tourists, with many restaurants, spas, hotels and bars forced to close their doors permanently.

But plenty of traveler favorites remain — and now might just be the best time to experience them given the lack of tourists.

Among these is Michelin-starred Jay Fai, one of Bangkok’s most popular street food restaurants.

Getting a table at this shop house on Maha Chai Road was no easy feat prior to the pandemic, with diners showing up hours before opening time to put their name on a wait list.

But describing 76-year-old owner and chef Supinya “Jay Fai” Junsuta’s cooking as “street food” is a bit like calling a Rolls-Royce merely a car. Crab omelets are her specialty and cost 1,000 baht (about $30) per plate.

However most doubters are silenced when they cut into one, the huge chunks of crab spilling out from their blanket of crispy, perfectly seasoned egg onto the plate. Other popular items on the menu not to be missed include her yellow crab curry and Thai classics like tom yum soup.

Assistants added charcoal to the fire or prepped ingredients, but as always the diminutive Jay Fay stood tall in her bright red lipstick, beanie hat and trademark goggles, worn to protect her eyes from the long hours in front of the intense heat. (To see Jay Fai in action check out the video at the top of this feature.)

Elsewhere, the city’s dining scene continues to evolve in spite of the pandemic, with a number of new and exciting restaurants elevating Thai cuisine to the next level.